Tag: linen thread

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What are the different weights of linen thread used for?

If you are new to sewing, then the different numbers in front of the linen thread can be confusing. What does it mean? What are they for? We wrote an article about how they compare to sewing machine threads here but that doesn’t really clear up the question of, but what should I use the different weights for? Below, we discuss what we use the different weights of linen thread for

90/2 – What we call “Extra Light”. This sewing thread is very fine and is good for delicate fabrics, like light weight linen, which aren’t going to have a lot of stress put on them. Napkins, veils and cuffs of shirts are where we would use this thread. It’s also good for lace work.

60/2 – What we call “Light” – Slightly heavier than the extra light, and good for construction seams on light linen – such as shirts, smocks and underwear.

35/2 – What we call “Medium” -This is our most common thread and used for constructions seams in linen and medium weight wools.

25/3 – Our “Heavy” thread. It’s what we use for construction seams of wool garments and other medium to heavy weight fabrics.

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What do I need to start hand sewing?

Historical hand sewing requires a few different supplies to get started, which might not be easily available from your local sewing store.

That’s why we’ve curated our beginning hand sewing kit with everything you need to start handsewing the medieval way.

In the kit is, high-quality linen thread in the appropriate weight should be waxed with beeswax before use. This helps strengthen the thread and makes it smoother which makes for easier sewing as the thread glides more easily through the fabric. Linen thread, especially hand sewing linen threads, can have slubs and the beeswax helps that go through the fabric more easily as well.

Good quality needles are also worth having for long sessions of hand-sewing and the thimble drives the needle without hurting the fingers, a necessity for a long sewing session.

The tailors awl is for the common task of eyeleting and the snips are for snipping the thread.

The kit contains:

  1. Linen thread – 10m samples of Swedish Bockens Lingarn 35/2, 60/2 and 90/2 on wooden spools
  2. Good quality assorted sharp and crewel needles
  3. Pins
  4. Needle storage cloth
  5. Thimble
  6. Beeswax
  7. Thread Snips
  8. Modern tailors awl
  9. Cotton bag.

Buy your hand sewing kit here

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Comparison of Linen Threads to Sewing Machine Threads

You might have noticed that our linen hand sewing threads have a Nel number code to describe their thickness, like 60/2 for our ‘light’ thread. The first number refers to the weight of each strand, with higher numbers being lighter weights, and the second number being the amount of ‘plies’, or strands, that are twisted together.

A handy way to think about thread sizes is by dividing the weight number by the ply number to get the total weight. A 60/2 linen thread is 2 plies of #60 linen, so 60/2 is the same weight as #30, also known as 30/1.

Standard sewing machine thread converts to be equivalent to 120/2 in the Nel system, so 60/2 is twice the weight of standard sewing machine thread.

90/2 extra-light thread = 1.5x sewing machine threads

60/2 light thread = 2x sewing machine threads

35/2 medium thread = 3.4x sewing machine threads

25/3 heavy thread = 7.2x sewing machine threads

This same handy rule shows us that:

25/3 = 8.3

and

16/2 = 8

So 25/3 and 16/2 are very similar weights, but 25/3 is 3 ply, and 16/2 is 2 ply.

At the extreme end, hand-stitched shoes often use 8/5 to stitch on the sole, so that thread is #1.6, or the weight of 37.5 sewing machine threads bundled together!

Is that any clearer? Do you have a different way of making sense of Nel numbers?